Whether you’re unboxing your first Monstera or growing your rare plant collection leaf by leaf, it’s normal to have questions, like:

How big will it be when it arrives? 

Does it need a moss pole?

Why is a leaf missing? 

What happens if it looks a little tired after shipping?

Don’t panic. We’ve gathered the most common Monstera FAQs we hear from Sun Grove customers like you and answered them all in one place, so you can feel confident and ready the moment your new plant shows up at the door!

Let’s get into it.

Q: How big will my Monstera be when it arrives?

A: Great question – and one we hear a lot.

Your Monstera will arrive at about 24 inches tall, measured from the base of the pot to the top of the foliage. It’s not towering yet, but it’s well on its way. These are healthy, rooted plants that have been carefully grown and cared for before shipping. You’re getting a strong start.

Q: What should I expect in terms of leaf count or maturity?

A: All of our Monstera varieties are shipped with at least four or more healthy leaves, so your plant already has a solid presence.

We’ve included the general age of each Monstera when it’s packed and sent to you:

• Monstera Albo: About 4 months old. This one starts from a cutting, so it establishes quickly and is ready for shipping sooner.
  
• Monstera Mint: About 4–5 months old. This variety is grown from a tissue-cultured liner, which gives it a stable and healthy root system by the time it arrives.

Each plant is unique, and variegation levels (especially with Albo and Mint) can vary leaf to leaf. That’s part of the fun. Truly, no two are the same!

Q: Is it safe to ship a Monstera during winter?

A: Yes. We’ve built our shipping process to keep your plant protected, even in the colder months.

During the winter season, we offer heat packs and expedited 2-day shipping to help maintain a stable temperature during transit. 

These two factors significantly reduce the risk of cold damage, so your Monstera arrives healthy, happy, and ready to grow once it gets to you.

Q: What should I do when my plant arrives?

A: The first step: don’t fret if it looks a little tired! Shipping can be stressful, even for sturdy plants like Monstera.

First, right when it’s unpacked, check the soil moisture with your finger. 

If the soil feels moist, hold off on watering. Monsteras prefer to dry out a bit between drinks. 

Wait until the top 1–2 inches of soil are dry before watering.

If you plan to repot, give it time. Allow your plant to stay in its original pot for 1–2 weeks so it can settle in and acclimate. Repotting too early can cause unnecessary stress.

Expect a little bit of cosmetic wear. Yellowing, spotting, or minor damage to leaves is normal after shipping. You can prune any damaged areas using clean shears, and new growth will resume once the plant has adjusted, usually within a week or two!

Q: When should I repot my Monstera & how big should the new pot be?

A: When it comes to repotting, the rule of thumb is simple: always size up, never down.

Since your plant arrives in an 8” pot, repot it into something slightly larger, ideally a container that is double the size in diameter. That gentle bump up gives the roots room to grow without overwhelming them in excess soil.

And if something feels off after you’ve unboxed it? Don’t panic or start cutting away…reach out to us within the first week! 

We’re happy to help troubleshoot before any extreme measures are taken. We insure the plant through that first week of delivery, and can usually help you course-correct before things go sideways.

Q: Does my Monstera need a moss pole?

Monsteras are natural climbers. 

In the wild, they grow up the sides of trees. A moss pole mimics that structure, giving your plant something to cling to and encouraging it to grow upward instead of outward. Adding a support can also lead to larger, more mature leaves over time.

If you’re looking to shape your Monstera into a taller or structured plant, a moss pole is an easy and smart addition.

Q: Should I prune my Monstera?

A: Yes! Light pruning is actually a great way to keep your plant healthy and looking its best.

Start by removing any yellow, wilted, or damaged leaves. You can also trim long, leggy stems to shape the plant and encourage bushier growth. Always make clean cuts just above a leaf node (that little bump on the stem) to promote new, healthy shoots.

Don’t be afraid to prune, really. It’s one of the best things you can do to support strong, balanced growth.

Q: I think my Monstera has root rot. What should I do?

A: Root rot occurs when a plant’s roots sit in overly wet soil for too long, depriving them of oxygen and creating ideal conditions for fungal growth. If your Monstera’s leaves begin yellowing, drooping, or the base starts to feel soft or mushy, it’s important to act quickly. Keep in mind that some root die-off is completely normal, especially as older roots age, so the presence of a few dead roots doesn’t automatically mean the plant has root rot.

Here’s what to do:

1. Remove the plant from its pot and gently shake off excess soil.
   
2. Inspect the roots: Healthy Monstera roots are typically light brown or tan, and older roots may naturally darken to a medium brown. Aerial roots are usually darker (often dark brown to nearly black) but should still feel firm. In contrast, rotten roots are usually black, soft, and slimy.
   
3. Trim away any rotten roots using sterilized scissors or shears. However, note that repeatedly cutting roots can stress the plant and make it more susceptible to future rot, so avoid over-trimming.
   
4. Repot the plant in fresh, well-draining soil and a clean pot with proper drainage holes.
   
5. Reduce watering, and let the soil dry more thoroughly between waterings moving forward.
   

Monsteras are resilient. These plants have earned their popularity for a reason: they’re beautiful, adaptable, and surprisingly forgiving. Especially when you start with a healthy, well-rooted plant (we have those!)

At Sun Grove, we pack and ship each of our Monstera plants with care so it arrives strong, vibrant, and ready to settle into your space.

With a little light, the right watering rhythm, and a bit of support (optional but encouraged), your Monstera will thrive for years to come.

Have any more questions? Reach out anytime. We’re always happy to help.

Happy growing!

Your friends at The Sun Grove

Follow us on Instagram for daily tips or shoot us an email at hello@sungrove.com with specific questions!

Caring for the Albo Monstera: Light, Water, and Growth Secrets

Some plants arrive and own the spotlight. The Albo Monstera makes it look easy.

Those leaves? Half white, half green, sometimes splashed like paint, sometimes dipped in cream. 

No two are ever the same. 

We’ve added a limited supply to the Sun Grove family, and we couldn’t be more thrilled for you to take this beauty home.

Understandably, you’ve had a few questions about this one. 

We have answers. 

Let’s get into it!

The Albo History

The Albo Monstera (Monstera deliciosa ‘Albo Variegata’) started as a happy accident. 

A natural mutation in the regular Monstera was to blame: instead of solid green leaves, it grew these wild, white-streaked ones. 

Collectors noticed and chased it down for years.

Compare it to the Thai Constellation: tissue-cultured, a little more predictable, more speckled than splashed. 

The Albo feels raw, unrepeatable. Every plant writes its story leaf by leaf vs. as a whole. 

That’s why people pay attention. 

It’s why you probably are, too!

Why Enthusiasts Obsess Over It

Growers trade Albo cuttings the way collectors trade art. Demand always outpaces supply.

The Albo Monstera rarely shows up in garden centers, and even at specialty nurseries, they disappear fast.

That scarcity built a cult following. But aside from rarity, the Albo plant is unpredictable. 

Some leaves emerge half white while others carry streaks or splashes. 

Each one changes the plant’s look, which keeps growers and enthusiasts riveted. 

You never know what the next leaf will reveal.

Here’s What to Expect at Home

The Albo is a true statement plant, meaning it won’t race to fill a corner like its green cousin.

That growth pace asks for patience.

But in return, the Albo offers presence. 

Each new leaf feels intentional and dramatic. Owning one requires you to slow down, notice details, and celebrate the reveal (a major bonus).

Caring for Your Albo Monstera Plant

So how do you ensure this rare beauty stays alive and well?

The Albo becomes simple once you understand it.

A little cheat sheet:

White leaves = less chlorophyll. Less chlorophyll = less fuel. 

Give it a little extra attention, and it rewards you with more leaves to obsess over.

Light Needs

Think bright, indirect light: a window that gets morning sun, or a spot pulled back from hot southern exposure. Too dark, and your plant pushes out more green. Too harsh? You risk the white part burning. 

It’s all about balance! Find the sweet spot in your home to keep the rare variegation strong.

Watering Needs

Give it a drink if the soil is dry 2-3 inches down. 

If it’s still damp, resist the temptation to water. Focus on rhythm, not a rigid schedule!

Mostly, you just need to know that the Albo Monstera hates soggy roots (which is also why you should go for chunky soil with bark, perlite, and peat). 

When to Repot

You’ll know it’s ready to repot: roots circling the pot, peeking out the drainage holes. For most plants, that means every year or two. 

Tip: repot in spring or early summer when growth surges and recovery comes easier!

Nutrient Needs

From spring through early fall, feed it every month or so with a balanced liquid fertilizer. 

Dial it down in winter when the plant naturally slows.

Your Common Questions: Answered

Why doesn’t my Albo look like the photos?
Because no two ever do, just as in nature. Some leaves are marbled, some half-and-half. That’s the best part!

What if my new leaf is all green?
This happens. Bright light helps keep the white coming, so if your plant leans green, prune back to stems with stronger variegation.

Does the Albo grow slower than my regular Monstera?
Yep! Less chlorophyll = slower growth. But those leaves are worth the wait.

Can I propagate mine?
Sure can. Here’s how: take a cutting with a node and at least one variegated section. Root it in water or soil, and soon you’ll have another Albo doing its own thing. These look great on a bathroom counter or shelf!

Ready to welcome an Albo into your home? Shop the (very) limited supply here.

Then, show us yours on social @sungrove! 

We can’t wait to see how your leaves unfurl, grow, and change with the seasons.

Shop The Monstera Albo

Your friends at The Sun Grove

Follow us on Instagram for daily tips or shoot us an email at hello@sungrove.com with specific questions!

How Rose Grafting Makes for Stronger, Longer-Lasting Blooms

News flash: not all roses grow the same.

And the ones you know and love? They get a little help!

Grafting techniques give each rose a stronger foundation. Literally. 

From Knock Out® roses to multi-grafts, the process starts long before blooms appear.

Here’s how we grow roses that last (and why it matters for you).

Roses, Engineered to Thrive

The quiet process behind showstopping blooms….

There’s a lot going on behind the scenes before your Knock Out® rose arrives on your porch.

Expert growers hand-select, cut, prep, and pair each plant to grow stronger from the start.

It’s called grafting, and it’s one of the reasons your rose will bloom faster, last longer, and handle stress better than a standard shrub. 

What Exactly Is Rose Grafting?

Grafting is the process of combining two plants into one super-performer.

Growers take the roots of a strong, resilient rose (called the rootstock) and attach the flowering variety on top (called the budwood). 

Together, they grow as one plant with the strength of the root system and the beauty of the desired rose.

Why Do Growers Graft Roses?

Some rose varieties produce incredible blooms but struggle in tougher conditions. 

Others are rugged, resilient, and disease-tolerant but lack the full color or form we love to see in a garden.

Grafting lets us give you the best of all worlds, like:

1. Faster growth and establishment
2. Bigger, longer-lasting blooms
3. Improved disease resistance
4. Better performance across different climates

It also allows us to standardize production, which means more reliable results once those roses reach your home.

What Kinds of Roses Are Typically Grafted?

At The Sun Grove, we use grafting for:

Knock Out® roses – These fan favorites grow faster and bloom more reliably when grafted onto strong rootstock.

From Field to Garden: How It Happens (In a Nutshell)

You don’t need to memorize the steps…but it’s pretty fascinating!

Fall: Take the Cuttings

In October, our growers harvest long canes called “whips” in Blythe, California.

These are sent to Shafter, CA, where they’re trimmed to 9” for June buds, 10” for multi-grafts, and 28” for trees.

Late Fall: Prep and Plant Rootstock

By November, the trimmed stems are de-eyed and planted, removing any growth points so energy flows into the graft later.

Each employee can plant up to 20,000 cuttings a day. Yes, really.

Winter: Store the Budwood

In December, budwood is cut from the current crop, de-leafed, and stored cold at 30°F to keep it fresh.

Spring: Graft and Grow

In April, a single bud is inserted into the side of each rootstock stem and tied securely.

Three weeks later, the stem above the graft is partially cut to redirect energy to the bud.

Six weeks after that, the rest of the stem is removed. It leaves only the new bud to grow and take over. 

Timed to perfection!

So, do grafted roses need special care?

Not really, but a little know-how goes a long way.

Care Tips to Know For Your Grafted Rose

1. Don’t bury the graft union when planting (look for the slight bump or “knot” near the base). Keep it just above the soil line to avoid suckers from the rootstock.
2. Prune lightly the first season to help shape the rose and direct growth upward.
3. Water deeply and consistently, especially during the first few months after planting.

Then, once established, grafted roses are among the easiest to care for and the most rewarding to grow.

Why It Matters To You

When you order our roses, you’re getting the result of months of expert care. It’s been grown with intention, precision, and a little horticultural magic!

That head start means your rose will thrive in your space with less guesswork, deeper color, and more blooms.

Ready for your very own? Shop the collection.

Happy gardening!

Your friends at The Sun Grove

Follow us on Instagram for daily tips or shoot us an email at hello@sungrove.com with specific questions!

Poinsettias are more than just a fleeting holiday decoration. They’re truly the gift that keeps on giving. 

With their striking colors and cheerful yet traditional energy, these plants can thrive well into the new year and even rebloom for the next holiday season. 

No matter if you have a full garden or a cozy apartment, here’s how to make the most of your poinsettias (and give them the spotlight they deserve).

For the Garden

Step 1: Tradition to the Outdoors

If you’re lucky enough to live in a frost-free climate, your poinsettias will love being outside once the holiday decor is packed away. 

Just wait until spring, then gradually acclimate them to the outside world. 

Start with a few hours in a shaded area, then move them to a spot with bright, indirect sunlight.

Step 2: Plant in the Garden

Choose a sunny, well-drained area and dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. 

Then, nestle the plant in place. 

Water generously after planting but don’t let them sit in soggy soil. They are not fans of too much moisture!

Step 3: Time to Prune 

Give your poinsettias a spring haircut. 

Trim back stems by half to encourage lush, healthy growth. 

With the right care, they may just reward you with fresh blooms for next year’s holiday.

Plant Pairings with Poinsettias

Surprisingly enough, the plants most known for winter are a GREAT fit for tropical-style gardens. Tip: Pair them with crotons for a vibrant, layered look that will have your neighbors swooning.

SHOP THE LOOK

For the Home

No garden? No problem! Poinsettias are equally gorgeous as indoor plants beyond the holidays.

Here’s how to keep them happy and healthy in your space.

Step 1: Pick a “Just Right” Spot

Poinsettias thrive in bright, indirect light. 

Place them near a window, but avoid drafts, radiators, or overly warm areas. 

They need a consistent temperature between 60–70°F. 

Basically, think of them as the Goldilocks of houseplants – not too warm, not too cold!

Step 2: Water Well – But! Don’t Overdo it

Check the soil: if the top inch feels dry, it’s time for a drink. 

Be sure to drain any excess water to keep their roots happy and healthy. 

Remember, poinsettias like moist soil, not a swamp.

Step 3: Find a New Warm-Weather Pot 

By spring, your poinsettias may need a new home. 

Repot them in fresh, well-draining soil, and give their roots room to grow. 

They’ll love a spring refresh in a pot more suited to the sunny season!

Step 4: Bring Back the Bracts

Here’s the secret to getting gorgeous, bold holiday colors again:

In October, place your poinsettias in complete darkness for 14 hours every night (trust us). 

Then, during the day, bring them into bright light. 

With a little patience, you’ll see those colorful bracts return just in time for the holidays!

A Pop of Color = Chic Decoration

Even after the holidays, poinsettias are a great pop of color in a drab room or space with little life. 

Display them in minimal pots for a modern look, or group them with other houseplants for an indoor garden. 

Their pink, white, or red colors pair beautifully with green.

Today, we hope we convinced you that poinsettias aren’t just for Christmas.

They’re a year-round bloom fit for those with great taste (you!).

Whether you’re planting them in your garden or styling them inside, these flowering plants bring warmth, charm, and a little magic.

Keep the holiday spirit blooming. See more of our poinsettias and flowering plants for sale here.

The Sun Grove Team

Follow us on Instagram for daily tips or shoot us an email at hello@sungrove.com with specific questions!